Hinoki Counter

Edomae Omakase · Greenwich Village

Hinoki Counter

Eleven courses. Ten seats. One counter of Japanese cypress, planed each morning before service.

Chef Ren Okabe serves a single progression drawn from Toyosu Market and the season — no menu to order from, nothing decided twice.

Est. 2019 · New York

The Experience

Two hours, held in silence and cedar

Service begins when the last guest is seated. Each course is set on the counter by hand, one piece at a time, at the temperature it was made to be eaten.

Rice is seasoned with two vintages of red vinegar and served body-warm. Fish is aged from three days to three weeks. Conversation is welcome; phones are asked to rest.

The Progression · Late Summer

Eleven courses, in the order they arrive

The progression changes with the market. What follows is tonight’s intention.

  1. Sakizuke

    Chilled winter-melon dashi, junsai, a single yuzu blossom.

  2. Zensai

    Five small dishes of the season, arranged on a hinoki board.

  3. Otsukuri

    Isaki aged three days, cut thick, fresh-grated wasabi.

  4. Owan

    Clear soup of hamo, pickled plum, green yuzu peel.

  5. Yakimono

    Nodoguro grilled over white charcoal, salted sudachi.

  6. Nigiri · First Flight

    Akami zuke, marinated twenty minutes in soy and mirin.

  7. Nigiri · Second Flight

    Hokkaido uni — aka and bafun, tasted side by side.

  8. Agemono

    Sweet-corn kakiage, brown-butter dashi for pouring.

  9. Nigiri · Third Flight

    Anago brushed with a nitsume reduced for ten years.

  10. Shokuji

    Sea-bream rice cooked tableside in donabe; red miso soup.

  11. Kanmi

    Warabi mochi, roasted soybean flour, thick-whisked matcha.

Marks an ingredient at its seasonal peak

Omakase$325 per guest

From the Counter

Akami zuke — course six
Hamo owan — course four
Bafun uni — course seven
Tai meshi donabe — course ten

Choose Your Seat

The counter, or the tatami room

Hinoki Counter

Every course placed before you by Chef Okabe, cut and finished within reach.

  • Seats10 guests
  • ChefRen Okabe
  • DurationAbout 2 hours

Tatami Room

A private room for one party, served the same progression by our second chef.

  • Seats4–6 guests
  • ChefAya Morimoto
  • DurationAbout 2½ hours

Reservations

Two seatings nightly

Seats are released on the first of each month for the month following. Reservations are prepaid and named.

5:30 PM

  • Tuesday – ThursdaySeats open
  • FridayWaitlist
  • SaturdayWaitlist
Reserve Seats

8:30 PM

  • Tuesday – ThursdaySeats open
  • FridaySeats open
  • SaturdayWaitlist
Reserve Seats

Counter seats 10 guests · Tatami room by request

Dietary restrictions

With one week’s notice we can accommodate shellfish and most fish allergies. The progression cannot be made vegetarian, and we are unable to substitute the rice.

Cancellation policy

Reservations may be moved or refunded up to 72 hours before your seating. Inside 72 hours, seats are transferable to another guest but not refundable.

Dress

There is no formal code — most guests dress smartly. We ask only that you arrive without strong perfume or cologne, which carries across ten seats.

Punctuality

Service begins for all ten guests at once. Doors open fifteen minutes before each seating; courses cannot be repeated for late arrivals.